Team haciM

[Team haciM]

So I haven't had time to figure out how to pull video clips off of youtube and go through my fights yet, maybe after moto... Anyway I have been doing some current testing with my different weapon bars and their effect on my weapon motors. I discovered that with my impactor bar after two spin-ups the pully and belt would warm up and not slip anymore. So cold it would draw 100 to 115 amps and warmed up it got up to 150 amps. I have done some testing with a ragebridge2 using current limiting and the results are looking good. I did 10 spin-ups and had the bar spun up for over 3 minutes and the motor was pretty warm but it should be ok. This setup will also simplify my wiring and be slightly lighter than the contactor setup. I also got my impactors back from the heat treaters and they came in at 54rc. Hopefully these don't break too soon as they took about 3hrs a piece to make. I also got 8 wheels cut out today. So far things are on track and I have actually had some time to do some testing.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                         .

[zacodonnell]

If you have enough steel in the impactors then 54RC is probably a good bed. I've heard that's the sweet spot, though I usually lean a little softer than the recommendation for parts that are similarly effective even if they get mashed over. Shattered teeth are worthless, mashed teeth are only a little less effective against metal bots than non-mashed teeth. Having a decent chunk of steel involved seems to make a big difference on where the too-brittle point is.

If you ramp up the power to the bar over one or two seconds does it make a big difference on your current draw? How long does it draw the heavy current numbers you're listing? That sounds like a lot!

-Zac

[rcjunky]

Running an esc will definitely keep weapon motors far more happy. Current limiting and rolling in to the throttle should go a long way in reducing current draw/motor temps

[Team haciM]

I am just going to use the esc like a contactor as my cheap pistol grip transmitter can only do that. It would be nice to ramp up the speed. I know there are a few different options of what I could do, but this late in the game I am not going to change anything else.
The new teeth should be fine and there is a little extra meat by the lone bolt hole as well.

[zacodonnell]

There is an off-the-shelf part that is made specifically for this. It might be worth a shot with very little risk:

http://teamdelta.com/products/prod2a.htm

-Zac

[rcjunky]

I'm probably going to have something similar to that with an arduino but will be bidirectional for my new lifter for the same reason, using 2 momentary buttons to go up and down with a pistol grip radio. I've got enough hardware to make 3 (just an arduino with pwm in/out), just gotta make sure my software guy can do that part since I don't do electronics

[zacodonnell]

The description seems to indicate that that component is bidirectional already. Might save you some uncertainty, unless you just want to play with an Arduino, which I am totally on board with of course

-Zac

[Team haciM]

That looks like it could be useful, I'll have to get one ordered for some more testing.                                                                                                                     

[rcjunky]

In my case I already received arduinos and they're cheaper. I know nothing about them but I got people for that in the case for BEAM, I think it'll be a big benefit to run something of that nature to give like a 2 second ramp.
 

[Team haciM]

So I couldn't find a servo slower, though I did not look at very many places. Due to the extreme cold the other week my bearings got lost in transit. Hopefully the new ones will show up today. I think I got the preload set up for my tapered roller hub. The bearings are heavier so I will be right at the limit for weight. I made an upper A frame out of 7075 to try and prevent some bending and bowing. I also made a set of taller wheels that I may use if the floor gets too beat up. Unfortunatly there is too much snow to do some test driving as I would like to dial in my controls a bit more instead of driving in lines in my basement. The wiring was changed to all xt90 connectors exept for the deans on the drive motors. This will greatly speed up weapon motor swaps if need be.