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Messages - MikeNCR

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1
Event Results / Central Illinois Bot Brawl 17
« on: November 17, 2017, 04:01:50 pm »
Central Illinois Bot Brawl 17
2017-08-12
1,Spinook,Wombatchewed
1,10 Days Til Destruction,Sky Shark
1,This Is A Test,Calamity Jazz Hands
1,Ignition,Stretcher
1,Holy Joe,Wombatchewed
1,Ignition,Sky Shark
1,Ygritte,Calamity Jazz Hands
1,Stretcher,Odium
1,Spinook,Ygritte
1,Ignatz,Circular Reference
1,10 Days Til Destruction,Odium
1,Betula,The Snip
1,This Is A Test,Holy Joe
1,Taster,The Krave Monsters
1,Some Putty's In Trouble,Ignition
1,Pushy Wushy,Peter Pan
1,The Krave Monsters,Holy Joe
1,Ignition,Peter Pan
1,Ygritte,Circular Reference
1,The Snip,Stretcher
1,Ignatz,Spinook
1,Betula,10 Days Til Destruction
1,taster,This Is A Test
1,Pushy Wushy,Some Putty's In Trouble
1,The Krave Monsters,Spinook
1,Ignition,10 Days Til Destruction
1,This Is A Test,Ygritte
1,The Snip,Some Putty's In Trouble
1,Ignatz,Betula
1,Pushy Wushy,Taster
1,Ignition,The Krave Monsters
1,The Snip,This Is A Test
1,taster,Ignition
1,The Snip,Betula
1,Ignatz,Pushy Wushy
1,The Snip,taster
1,The Snip,Pushy Wushy
1,Ignatz,The Snip
3,Boomzilla,Dandelion
3,Al6bb1,Honorable Mention
3,k-too,Phantom II
3,From the Top of Skyscrapers,Death from Above
3,Icky Mouse,Elepha-Flip
3,Cyanide,TripOut
3,TripOut,Elepha-Flip
3,Phantom II,Honorable Mention
3,King Googly,Boomzilla
3,k-too,Al6bb1
3,Catalpa,From the Top of Skyscrapers
3,Cyanide,Icky Mouse
3,Boomzilla,Death from Above
3,TripOut,Al6bb1
3,From the Top of Skyscrapers,Dandelion
3,Phantom II,Icky Mouse
3,k-too,King Googly
3,Catalpa,Cyanide
3,Boomzilla,TripOut
3,Phantom II,From the Top of Skyscrapers
3,Boomzilla,Cyanide
3,Phantom II,King Googly
3,k-too,Catalpa
3,Phantom II,Boomzilla
3,Phantom II,Catalpa
3,k-too,Phantom II

2
Event Results / Battles at Maker Faire Orlando 2017
« on: October 30, 2017, 07:15:16 pm »
Battles at Maker Faire Orlando 2017
2017-10-21
0,Skeeter From Hell,Regret's Roulette
0,Firecracker,Nano Nightmare
0,Krabby,WIDE LOAD
0,Sorry Charlie,Paw Print
0,Mustachio,Hard Cutie
0,Neon Knight,Spark Remover
0,WIDE LOAD,Nano Nightmare
0,Hard Cutie,Spark Remover
0,Skeeter From Hell,Blockbuster
0,Firecracker,Krabby
0,Sorry Charlie,Blind Drive
0,Mustachio,Neon Knight
0,Regret's Roulette,Neon Knight
0,Blind Drive,WIDE LOAD
0,Paw Print,Krabby
0,Blockbuster,Hard Cutie
0,Skeeter From Hell,Firecracker
0,Mustachio,Sorry Charlie
0,Regret's Roulette,Blind Drive
0,Blockbuster,Paw Print
0,Firecracker,Regret's Roulette
0,Blockbuster,Sorry Charlie
0,Firecracker,Blockbuster
0,Skeeter From Hell,Mustachio
0,Firecracker,Mustachio
0,Firecracker,Skeeter From Hell
0,Firecracker,Skeeter From Hell
1,Verbal Irony,TinyBot
1,Werewolf,Ting Tang
1,Temper tANTrum,Bad Owl
1,Verbal Irony,Batter Blaster
1,Klazo,Pesticide
1,Stalker CombatANT,Chainsaw
1,Soco Loco,Foolproof
1,Atomic Wedgie,Werewolf
1,Poco Tambor,Happy Happy Kill Kill
FORFEIT 1,Temper tANTrum,Brainstorm
1,Shiny Wedgie,Hamburger Helper
1,Hamburger Helper,TinyBot
1,Foolproof,Ting Tang
1,Pesticide,Bad Owl
FORFEIT 1,Hamburger Helper,Brainstorm
1,Werewolf,Happy Happy Kill Kill
1,Chainsaw,Foolproof
1,Pesticide,Batter Blaster
1,Klazo,Verbal Irony
1,Stalker CombatANT,Soco Loco
1,Poco Tambor,Atomic Wedgie
1,Shiny Wedgie,Temper tANTrum
1,Soco Loco,Hamburger Helper
1,Verbal Irony,Werewolf
1,Chainsaw,Temper tANTrum
FORFEIT 1,Pesticide,Atomic Wedgie
1,Stalker CombatANT,Klazo
1,Poco Tambor,Shiny Wedgie
1,Verbal Irony,Soco Loco
1,Pesticide,Chainsaw
1,Stalker CombatANT,Poco Tambor
1,Shiny Wedgie,Verbal Irony
1,Pesticide,Klazo
1,Pesticide,Shiny Wedgie
1,Pesticide,Poco Tambor
1,Stalker CombatANT,Pesticide
3,Bloodless,Project: Terminus
3,Fantom,Hyperling
FORFEIT 3,Hexys Revenge,TailSpin
3,Trilobiter,XK-1
3,Bloodless,BLUETOOTH
3,Fantom,Double Crosser
3,Hexys Revenge,Dead End
3,Trilobiter,Demon Spawn
3,Project: Terminus,Demon Spawn
3,Dead End,Hyperling
FORFEIT 3,Double Crosser,TailSpin
3,XK-1,BLUETOOTH
3,Bloodless,Fantom
3,Trilobiter,Hexys Revenge
3,Project: Terminus,Dead End
3,XK-1,Double Crosser
3,Project: Terminus,Fantom
3,XK-1,Hexys Revenge
3,Trilobiter,Bloodless
3,Project: Terminus,XK-1
3,Project: Terminus,Bloodless
3,Trilobiter,Project: Terminus
15,Sonic The Wedgehog,Godzilla
15,ShaBoomBox,Clown Fiesta
15,F-13,Animosity
15,ShaBoomBox,F-13
15,Clown Fiesta,Animosity
15,ShaBoomBox,Sonic The Wedgehog
15,Sonic The Wedgehog,F-13
15,Animosity,ShaBoomBox
15,Clown Fiesta,F-13
15,Sonic The Wedgehog,Animosity
15,ShaBoomBox,Godzilla
15,Clown Fiesta,Sonic The Wedgehog
15,Godzilla,Animosity
15,Clown Fiesta,Godzilla
15,ShaBoomBox,Clown Fiesta
30s,Morrigan,Spanky
30s,Nyx,Remains of Irma
30s,Morrigan,Remains of Irma
30s,Nyx,Morrigan
30s,Spanky,Remains of Irma
30s,Nyx,Spanky
30s,Nyx,Sporkinok SC
30s,Spanky,Sporkinok SC
220,Flailure to Launch,AG-gressive
220,Breaker Box,Maulboard
220,Hype or Shock,Fauxhawk
220,Breaker Box,AG-gressive
220,Gruff,Fauxhawk
220,Hype or Shock,Maulboard
220,Breaker Box,Flailure to Launch
220,Gruff,The Extinguisher
220,Hype or Shock,AG-gressive
220,The Extinguisher,Flailure to Launch
220,Gruff,Flailure to Launch
220,Hype or Shock,Flailure to Launch
220,The Extinguisher,AG-gressive
220,Breaker Box,Hype or Shock
220,Breaker Box,The Extinguisher
220,Gruff,AG-gressive
220,Breaker Box,Gruff

3
Questions / Re: Sportsman Saw Arm
« on: October 29, 2017, 01:54:11 pm »
775's make for a decent drive motor option in the 30lb class. With 5" wheels the 16:1's will probably be a bit too fast, and the 64:1's will likely be far too slow. You can play around with this to get an idea what you'll end up with - http://sparc.tools/TorqueCalc.php (use the nominal battery pack voltage for the voltage number, so 3.3v per cell for LiFe) This gearbox gets to a not bad spot speed wise- http://www.banebots.com/product/P60S-333-7.html (13.5ft/s top speed with 5" wheels, if you want a bit faster 6" wheels would work too)

If you're going A123 or another LiFe chemistry you'll likely want to run a 6s pack, or set of smaller packs in series that total 6s (19.8v nominal)

The drill motor may be enough for the saw, but it's hard to say for sure as it's not a setup I've messed around with. (Spanky used a cordless circular saw motor with a bit of extra gearing)

A gearmotor with some extra reduction is a solid option for the arm. You've got a few options for how to protect the motor/gearbox - Torque limiter, current limiting, limit switches, or hope. On Nyx's lifter I use current limiting to keep from massively overdriving the lifter and that's been a reliable option. The axe setup on Nyx uses a torque limiter and it's worked quite well there and has been plenty good for self righting.

An impact at the end of the arm will apply the torque to the system, so I'd lean against backdrive resistant systems (worm gears or similar) as the system being driven back can absorb a lot of the force without doing as much damage to the mechanism.

If you want a good look at how I dealt with some similar issues, take a look here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Nyx-30lb-Fighting-Robot-Re-Made/

4
Questions / Re: Sportsman Saw Arm
« on: October 24, 2017, 03:27:30 pm »
The cut-off disc will be less prone to getting stuck, but will be more vulnerable to side loading and will be easier to break. It may be worth having a few different styles of blades on hand and a way to change them out quickly to adapt for who you're fighting.

Without more detail on your weapon system, it's hard to say if you're making the correct motor choice. With that said, I had been considering the A23-150 from ampflow for the rebuild of Spanky's circular saw attachment.

There aren't many servos at a scale that would suit the arm of a 30lb bot well. The easy route would be gearing a normal motor low enough that the braking torque on the motor and the bit of resistance in the gear train is enough that it stays put. To give an example, with Nyx, the lifter arm is geared 9:1 beyond the DeWut in low gear. The arm generally will stay in position unless I provide control input or a large external force is exerted on it. Another option would be finding a gearbox (or building one) that's got a worm stage or other similar mechanism that resists backdriving. It'd likely be heavier/more complicated, but it would work.

5
You'll either need to replace the connector on the battery with one of the other ones you're looking at or find the type of connector the battery uses and use that style of connector for at least the connection between the battery and switch.

6
Mike, hope all's well!  I got a bunch of parts now and I'm trying to figure it out!  Ha..

If I want to buy plugs so that I can solder the 2 red and black ends to the motor and have a plug to plug in to the battery, which ones would I use?  This is the battery I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JNL5EKS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Style-Servo-Extension-Variety-Pack/dp/B01JKCKB8O/ref=pd_sim_21_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4TN9V9SRB8EC690A2207

or this?

https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Female-Bullet-Connectors-Battery/dp/B01ETROGP4/ref=pd_sim_21_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=99TVRZFPQCHM9Q9SAJX7


They're mentioned here at 5:03:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LlOHMgo3Sfs&t=302s




Thanks for any help!  Chris

The second one is more along the lines of what you'd want for running power around the bot. I'd suggest having connectors like that between the battery and power switch as well as between each esc and motor to make it easy to work on or replace motors/gearboxes. You'll want to replace the existing main plug on the battery with whatever type of connector you use for the bot. (On that note, you may want to use a different size connector for the Battery-to-switch portion and the esc-to-motor portion so you can't hook them up incorrectly) I also put the female connector on the battery side of the circuit in all of my bots so with connectors that have the contacts exposed on their male connectors there's less risk of a short when something's unplugged.

I'd also suggest a read through this post on my team site: http://nearchaos.net/battle-hardening-the-inside-of-your-bot/

This image from my instructable may be a handy reference as well-

https://cdn.instructables.com/FSB/86VU/I1JW9VZP/FSB86VUI1JW9VZP.LARGE.jpg

7
Awesome.. Thanks for the info.. I'll def go to FI either way.  There's a slim chance I can still get this together though.. ha.  And I'm entered, so may as well give it a shot.. right?  Ha.. 

Would this need a brushed ESC or a brushless ESC?  Thanks!

Brushed ESC. I'd suggest the RageBridge in this application with the current limit set to around 50A. Using the banebots 775 motor with a 16:1 gearbox (this should be moderately comparable) with this calculator I get 25A for wheelspin per motor - http://sparc.tools/TorqueCalc.php

The reason I suggest double that for the limit is that you may have another 30lbs sitting on top of your bot and having enough power to spin the wheels is handy.

8
You'll need to select quantities(2 for each for a single gearbox) for step 2 on the gearbox, the wheel looks correct. You may be best off either ordering two gearboxes worth of parts now to give a bit more build time or deciding to not worry about getting the 30 built in time for Franklin and focusing on getting that done for Motorama. Even if you do the latter, I'd suggest attending FI with whatever else you've got for the experience.

9
In addition to the base kit you'll need gear kits and ring gear kits that will reach your desired ratio (for example, two 4:1 kits will create a 16:1 gearbox and you'll need two ring gear kits - 4*4=16)

If you're not using CIM motors or dual motors you won't need those.

You'll also want one 775pro per gearbox assuming that's the motor you'd like to use.

You don't need the encoder.

The 1/2" hex shaft has a 1/4-20 tapped hole at the end of it. You can use that with a bolt and washer to prevent the wheel coming off of the end of the shaft. (The 1.575" shaft length should work nicely with the 1.5" wide Colsons so you'll just need a washer that's sized for a 1/4" bolt that's got a large enough outer diameter to prevent the wheel from sliding over it - probably 3/4" OD at a minimum)

10
I've not used them myself, but these in the right ratio may work well-

https://www.vexrobotics.com/vexpro/motion/versaplanetary.html

The hex shaft option they've got for those will also work with these-

https://www.vexrobotics.com/vexpro/motion/colsonperforma.html

This motor will pair well with the gearbox-

https://www.vexrobotics.com/217-4347.html

You'll probably want a total gear ratio somewhere in the 16:1 to 26:1 range for a 3-4" wheel (this would mean a 2 stage gearbox)

11
or should I go w/ http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-magnum775.html


And something like:

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-co1-4-441.html



Can you tell if that wheel includes the attachment I'd need to connect the wheel to the motor?  Thanks!

The Magnum would be a good option, but seeing as they're discontinued and RMP has 2 left it's a bit of a risk, as the stock count may not be accurate and getting spares will be difficult. To use the 1/2" keyed shaft you'll need a hub similar to the ones here: http://nearchaos.net/chaos-hubs/

You could also pair the 1/2" keyed versahub from here https://www.vexrobotics.com/vexpro/motion/versahubs.html with the wheels here https://www.vexrobotics.com/vexpro/motion/versawheels.html

12
The Colson is by far the better option in the 30lb class vs. the pololu wheel. With that said, you'll want some sort of gearing on the E30-150 as it'd have far too high a top speed and far too little torque in that configuration to be useful as a drive system. The Ampflow itself is also a bit large as a drive motor for a 30lb bot with a weapon. Ampflow does sell a compatible gearbox (and the wheels that fit them) here: http://ampflow.com/wheelmotors.htm

13
Mike, thanks a ton for your responses.  I've learned a lot from looking in to what you suggested.  I'm actually going to hold on to the ant weight kit I got from RobotShop and put it together (I was going to send it back for a credit, so I could buy the parts for the 30 pound robot).  I feel like I'll have a much better idea of what I need after that (and it has all the parts that fit together.. ha).  Maybe I could use it as a multibot if my Sportsman is 29 pounds!  lol..

One thing I've realized is that I really want to put the lifter arm like Nyx has (it's definitely my ideal weapon.. really thought out well!):

https://cdn.instructables.com/FRB/GYYX/I28OJS5X/FRBGYYXI28OJS5X.MEDIUM.jpg


The one on Nyx looks really complicated though.  Is there any simple way to build that?  Ha.. Something rigged, etc that probably won't be as efficient, but would work in a similar manner?

Thanks again for all the suggestions.  I'll keep you posted once I get the ant weight together (and learn some more)..


Thanks!!!

Starting with a small bot to figure everything out is a good plan. The lifter on Nyx isn't too complicated when you break it down a bit. The gearmotor for the lifter is a DeWut in low gear, and there are two 3:1 gear stages out from that, so all you really need to do is figure out the spacing for the gearing you'd like to use and drill a few accurate holes. Beyond that it's just getting the connection from the shaft to the arm solid. (that's why there are multiple 1/4" plates sandwiched together as it brings it up to 2" of keyway)

There's an Australian bot that does a somewhat different take on the setup using a linkage between a winch gearbox and the arm to drive the lifter- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zJjcvkFFV6U&t=11s

Also, no pressure, but I wrote these questions down at 5AM today.. Maybe you have an answer to one or 2 of them..

Do I need 3 ESC's because I need one for both sides of the robot (left wheel and right wheel) and then 1 for the lifter?

How do I attach the lifter to a motor like an A28-150, etc?

What is the best choice for a body without having the ability to cut steel and weld (or are there other alternatives that I'm missing)?

How do you choose which amp ESC to use?

Which BEC do you use when you have 3 ESCs?


Thanks for any help here!  Chris

Yep, 3 esc's would be the right balance. On Nyx I used a ragebridge for the weapon as that let me adjust the current limit to each of the weapon configurations (as an example, the lifter's limited to 50A which provides approximately 45lbs of force at the tip of the forks with the gearing I use)

The A28-150 has a 1/2" keyed shaft, so you'll need to find gears or sprockets with a 1/2" bore and a keyway or modify ones without that to fit it. From there it'll be sorting out the geartrain to get the ratio you want.

Nutstrip is a wonderful thing for holding parts together- https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=nutstrip and http://www.bigbluesaw.com/ is a great fabrication option if you've got access to cad software. Here's a good walkthrough showing a bunch of other fabrication/assembly techniques you may find handy- http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Build-your-Everything-Really-Really-Fast/

Choosing an esc is about matching it with the motor. Generally, the motor will be cheaper than the esc so you'd rather have the esc ratings exceed that of the motor. With esc's like the ragebridge, the current limiting is adjustable and you can get a bit tricky with that. For BattleBots Season 2 we used a single ragebridge per A28-150 in our drivetrain with a good bit of success because we kept the limitations of the esc in mind and pushed right up against, but not past them.

If you've got multiple bec's between your esc's you'll often want to use just one (you can remove/cut the red wire on the pwm cable for the ones you don't want to use) but some esc's will work with multiple bec's connected without issue. Big thing is to check with the manufacturer or vendor to see if they know if it's compatible before applying power.

14
Nice!  Thanks for your reply.  Your Nyx bot is awesome!  Yea, I'm definitely not expecting anywhere near that level right now.  Just something that qualifies to fight!  ha.

If you have a few minutes, I could really use your advice on the following..


So I'm 100% open to specific suggestions.  From what you said:

Battery (would this be good?):
https://www.amazon.com/Hobbico-LiFeSource-Phosphate-Transmitter-Connectors/dp/B00NE05F8A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506193299&sr=8-1&keywords=%2BLiFe%2Bbatteries&th=1


Charger:
https://www.amazon.com/Hobbico-Lifesource-AC-Balance-Charger/dp/B004QJTSVS/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=65D6PQFYYAT6SEAFAHSZ&dpID=51vdtdfM47L&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=detail


ESC (Is this the ESC you recommend.. would I need 2 or just 1?  It says brushed, so this would work w/ the drill motors?):
https://www.hobbytown.com/torquemaster-brxl-brushed-esc-by-holmes-hobbies-hhbtmbrxl/p195994?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-rXmgIG81gIVhLXACh307AM4EAkYASABEgIbVfD_BwE


LED Light:
https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-power-led


With the motor, I would def be good with buying the motor from RobotShop or whatever, but I'm not sure what size to buy or how that would affect the ESC.  I'm basing it off the YouTube video.  I don't really get the gearbox / motor.  Do I need both?  I thought I could only use a motor and connect that to the wheels somehow.. ha.  You mentioned the Magnum 775:
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-magnum775.html


Wheels (I don't really understand how this will attach to the motor.. I'd need a wheel hub?  But would I make it?  It seems like TeamTiki may not be servicing their website orders anymore b/c when I went to purchase a drill motor, it said they were out of stock and I don't see a contact form):
https://www.amazon.com/Performa-Bearing-1-3-441-Hi-Tech-Encore/dp/B0195V3FD8


Switch:
I'm having a hard time finding the Whyachi MS-05.  I checked a bunch of sites.  Would this one work?  Not sure b/c it says 40w on it (I'm def open to whatever here):
http://www.robotshop.com/en/fingertech-40a-mini-power-switch.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIqd_VqPy41gIVlUsNCh3klwkbEAkYASABEgLg8fD_BwE


I'm just throwing this out there, but I'd shoot you $50 through paypal for at max a 20 minute phone call, just to make sure I'm getting the right components..  I'm sure it would save me $50 in wrong parts ordered.. ha.  If not, no big deal.  Advice here on the forum is awesome..


Thanks a ton for your time!!  I'll def let you know how the bot turns out either way!!

Haven't done much with LiFe lately, so I can't speak to the quality of those packs but I do recall people suggesting this site a while back- http://www.buddyrc.com/power-system/battery/a123-life-batteries.html

Two of these would likely give you plenty of run time- http://www.buddyrc.com/a123a-2s2p-1.html

The charger looks like it'll probably work, but I strongly suspect you'll get to a point where you'll want more than what it'll do out of it. You'd also need two of them at a minimum to charge a full set of batteries for your bot. I recently switched my charging gear over to one of these and have been very happy with it- https://www.venompower.com/collections/battery-chargers/products/venom-pro-quad-100w-7a-4-port-ac-dc-lipo-lihv-nimh-battery-balance-charger-1

They've got a lower cost option that'll do two packs at once here that's effectively the same cost as doing the chargers you were looking at- https://www.venompower.com/collections/battery-chargers/products/venom-pro-duo-80w-x2-dual-ac-dc-7a-lipo-lihv-nimh-rc-battery-balance-charger

With the BR-XL you'd want one esc per motor. The Ragebridge is a dual channel esc, so for the drive you'd only need one ragebridge (which means they're effectively the same cost for the same utility)

The DeWut is the good & easy drive option - http://e0designs.com/products/dewut-3-speed-gearmotor-kit/
The drill setup hear is the cheap option - http://ttrobotics.com/19-2-volt-robot-motor-new/
The BaneBots boxes are somewhat middle of the road, two 16:1's or 26:1's would make for an ok drive, 4 would make for a fairly nimble bot with a good bit of push with 3-4" wheels- http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-pdx16.html
The Magnum775's sadly no longer available as they were a really solid option a bit below the dewut but a bit above the banebots in suitability for the 30lb class.

The nice thing with the DeWut/BaneBots options are they're ready to go with hubs that are available. If you want to run 1.5" wide colsons I do hubs for those - http://nearchaos.net/chaos-hubs/

Someone already linked to the MS-05, so I'll skip that part. Here's an example of a removable link: http://www.etotheipiplusone.net/pics/nh/nh38.jpg

Nobody really sells them, because it's just a normal connector with a loop of wire that's used to complete the circuit in the bot to power it on.

15
A few quick things-

I haven't used those drill motors myself, they may work fine, they may not. Banebots and e0designs both have higher quality options that'll work. There's also http://ttrobotics.com/19-2-volt-robot-motor-new/ which is a pre-hacked drill motor that'd be reasonably suited for combat. If you're using a drill motor you'll also want to look at these for hubs and match the wheels to it- http://ttrobotics.com/tiki-tophat-drill-motor-colson-hub/

Assuming you're planning to wire the batteries in series, 14.8v, 5000mah will be plenty for a 30lb bot. For Franklin another option would be LiFe batteries as they've got a better power to weight ratio. You'll want to match the charger to whatever battery type you're planning to use. (and ideally, consider what types you'll want to use in the future so you don't have to buy a new charger soon) In addition to that, you may not have time to fully charge your batteries later in a tournament so having a full spare set of batteries is a good idea in the long run. With that said, you'll probably be able to run two fights on 5000mah unless your weapon's drawing a massive amount of power.

Colsons are a good baseline wheel option, you'll need to match up your wheels to your hubs, and your hubs to the shaft they ride on. Live hubs are for spinning shafts, dead hubs are for fixed shafts.

If you're using drill motors they're almost certainly going to be brushed, not brushless unless they specify otherwise. The Holmes Hobby BR-XL is a good 30lb esc option, the RageBridge from e0designs is another good one. ESC's are one area I'd strongly suggest not skimping on as a good esc that's well matched to your motors will likely outlast the bot.

The DX6 is fine as a transmitter, I use spektrum transmitters with the hobbyking OrangeRX receivers (make sure you're getting the right type) and have been happy with that mix. Be sure that whatever rx you get failsafes correctly.

The Fingertech Switch has been used in harsher applications. I prefer the Whyachi MS-05 or a removable link for 30lb bots but if you're not drawing a ton of current it'll work.

For LEDs this is a better option: https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ft-power-led

For a 3rd motor you'll need an esc to run it and for a hammer you'll probably want to hook it up to the rudder channel on the rx. A drill powered hammer won't be the most powerful weapon, but that's not really the point and building the bot will be a good learning experience.

Cutting board can work as structure/armor. It's not the best option but you'll likely manage to get by. I'd suggest extra layers/armor in areas that are likely to get hit in combat.

If you want to take a look at another 30lb build for ideas I've got a full instructable up for my sportsman class bot Nyx at http://www.instructables.com/id/Nyx-30lb-Fighting-Robot-Re-Made/

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