SPARC Forum
Tech => Progress Reports => Topic started by: MikeNCR on January 14, 2015, 07:30:26 pm
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The Near Chaos Robotics fleet as of this posting consists of:
Nyx, a 30lb Sportsman class bot with interchangeable weapons including an axe, a crusher, and a lifter.
Spanky, a 30lb Sportsman class bot with interchangeable weapons including a chainsaw and a circular saw.
Dolos, the rebuilt carcass of Testbot, currently competing as a wedge with a floating bot catcher.
Hypnus, a 12lb dustpan-ish wedge.
Algos, a titanium clad antweight with a high rpm spinning drumette.
Klazo, one of the early prototypes for the 1lb Saifu kit that's undergone several upgrades over the years.
Reptar, an antweight front hinged flipper.
The team website is http://nearchaos.net/
We regularly post event and test videos to https://www.youtube.com/user/mikencr
More bots are almost always in the works. We'll also be running an event in May using the SPARC ruleset as part of the Atlanta Robot Fight Club.
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With Motorama coming up and the Ratbots class theoretically happening I decided to make something.
This is: The End Result of a Series of Poor Decisions.
Cutting out the main body from 3" square tubing with the plasma cutter.
(http://i.imgur.com/tkAATtY.jpg)
Rough cut main body post plasma-ing.
(http://i.imgur.com/6cqIsZK.jpg)
Chassis after welding the main body to the cross bar and adding the "lipo jail" structure.
(http://i.imgur.com/BbiwnCr.jpg)
Rough mock-up with all wheels in place.
(http://i.imgur.com/9r4QksP.jpg)
First full power-on test. Everything works, even the weapon esc that already has one side burnt out.
(http://i.imgur.com/q1lilnO.jpg)
Components consist of:
1x Porter Cable 18v angle grinder
1x Chinese knock-off Magnum 775 gearmotor, originally a spare for Spanky.
1x 2650mAh 6s lipo, originally a spare for Nyx.
2x BR-XL esc's, originally spare weapon escs for Nyx.
1x R610 Orange RX, originally used in Moros iirc.
Weapon options consist of 1 wavy 21" lawnmower blade, one flat 21" lawnmower blade, and one 18" flat lawnmower blade. Waiting on arrival of the flat blades, some flame retardant foam for the battery, and the application of a large amount of duct tape.
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This is the dumbest, ugliest, sketchiest thing I've ever made. But that was sorta the point.
(http://nearchaos.net/TERSPDone2.jpg)
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Looks a little light. Isn't it suppose to be 12 lbs?
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Supposed to be visually-12lbs.
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Did up a new set of rotors for the drumette upgrades Algos is getting.
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Are they fully custom, or modified from existing rotors?
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They're made from these outrunners- http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idproduct=35665
Stator area had the bearings pulled and the inner portion was drilled out to fit the 1/4" shoulder bolt shaft.
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The patterned duct tape really sets off the crazy pattern on the blade. This bot looks a lot like Mr. Self Destruct... but easier to contain.
The whole RatBot thing is basically what I did for Weakened Warrior for Bot Blast a couple years back. I'd enter it in this except it's my multibot entry now. Looks like you really nailed the spirit of it. It might be a very short-fought class but it will be fun to watch.
-Zac
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QRgEU1W9_Rw
Giving The End Result of a Series of Poor Decisions a quick shake down.
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I've put Algos back together with the new, hopefully much more durable drumette.
(http://nearchaos.net/Algos2-4-2015-1280.jpg)
Here's a look at the weapon cross-section:
(http://nearchaos.net/DrumetteUpdate1-26-15.jpg)
1/4" dead shaft via a modified shoulder bolt.
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Looks hella cool man.
What's the stuff covering the tires?
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Looks hella cool man.
What's the stuff covering the tires?
Brush on latex.
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It spins quite nicely after a few adjustments:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7Ye1KYO9fs
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Here's a shot of the main parts of the spinning weapon on Algos.
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Looks nice, I've been meaning to draw up something similar for a 15 pound bot for a while.
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Took a couple clean shots of the ants pre-moto:
Algos:
(http://nearchaos.net/algos2015-1280.jpg)
Klazo:
(http://nearchaos.net/klazo2015-1280.jpg)
Eleos:
(http://nearchaos.net/eleos2015-1280.jpg)
The observant viewer will notice a new bot. Eleos is one of the new FingerTech Viper Lifter Kits. Not sure if it will be competing at Moto yet, but I'll have it for testing at a minimum.
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How do you self right with Algos? just give the weapon some juice and it flips itself back over? It looks like the standoffs are too short to prevent the longest part of the blade from hitting.
-Zac
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How do you self right with Algos? just give the weapon some juice and it flips itself back over? It looks like the standoffs are too short to prevent the longest part of the blade from hitting.
-Zac
Yeah, even if the weapon's stopped you can throw it in reverse to get the drumette starting to spin and it'll kick itself over pretty fast.
You can see it nicely in this video- http://youtu.be/X3lp1Pzcb6I?t=1m4s
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This is how I was self righting Weakened Warrior until I changed the gearing to spin the blade faster for Chop. Now the motor and batteries can do it but the HK controller I had can't. I blew two up before I switched to the hoops of shame. I may look for a more reliable controller for future versions if it doesn't get totally erased at Moto
-Zac
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The drive wheels being in contact with the ground helps a lot, gets the motor past that initial startup lag.
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Hello,
What is on the tires of Eleos? They look very rubbery. I can't wait to see him. My little brother has a Viper spinner kit.
Adam
Revelation
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They're the stock FT wheels with a brush on latex coating.
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Zac, what controller are you using in your bot? Must not have over-rated it by quite enough, or it's marked up because it's Chinese.
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Here's the pre-Moto shot of Nyx:
(http://nearchaos.net/nyx2015-1280.jpg)
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someone mentioned the fact that debris might clog your gear system on the axe and such. do you have a solution for that?
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I'd think it's pretty unlikely, and most debris that COULD block it would probably fall off if he reversed the weapon.
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It's not a major concern as most of the gears in a spot where it might be an issue shouldn't touch the ground.
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I'm using this controller:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11743__HobbyKing_Brushless_Car_ESC_60A_w_Reverse.html
The blade is ~5" asymmetrical 20 tooth pulley on the motor and 34 tooth on the blade. I'm running 4S lipo now. I think it may be an issue with the software sensing the overload in time to save itself. I'm using it from a dead stop so I expected it to fail to start instead of blowing up, but I've got 2 dead ones now. One just stopped showing signs of life and the other smoked visibly. They don't even get warm in normal usage. I did remove the fan.
-Zac
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If you do get new ESCs, I'd buy Tekin RS Gen 2s. I've been using the first-gen ones for 4 years now and I haven't lost a single one (well, I've LOST them, but that's a different story...). They weigh less than yours by far, are smaller, and should handle 120 amps on at least 4S lipo easy. I've driven some huge Neu motors off them and they don't even warm up, let alone die.
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The specs on their site say they only go to 3S, or am I looking at a different controller than the one you mean?
http://www.teamtekin.com/rs.html
-Zac
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Nope, that's the ones. They say that, but they work fine on 4S, at least for ~15 minutes on the drive motors. I've run a weapon that drew around 120 amps startup on them and they survived, at 4s, I just avoided stalling if I could.
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I think self-righting the robot using the weapon would qualify as stalling... and reliability would be the primary reason to switch so picking a controller that shows me out of spec is probably not the best bet. I spent a little more time on their site and found another controller that would fit in my footprint and should be way overkill (my favorite thing for ESCs) though:
http://www.teamtekin.com/rx8.html
It supports up to 6S, leaving lots of headroom. They say 200A but that's probably optimistic in practice but should still be way more than I need.
Thanks for putting me on to them. We'll see how it goes at Moto this year. I want to decide if this bot is going to be a real thing before dropping 200 bucks on a controller for it.
-Zac
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I meant like sitting there twitching, it stalls when it hits stuff of course. The RX8 is a nice controller, but for ALL of Tekin's ESCs, you should DEFINITELY either make a non conductive block with holes for those fancy golden pins, to prevent them being bent, OR snip the most of the way off and of course make sure you don't have any bridges between the pins before you hook it up to a battery.
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I thought those connectors on this controller looked a little exposed. I try to "battle harden" all of my controllers by potting the leads in shoe goo and adding shrink wrap / electrical tape around all of the conductive areas. I've broken too many things trying to run wires and jam them in between components to trust the little solder joints to hold. I may give that controller a shot - it's always good to hear from somebody who has used their stuff before in actual combat.
Bad things happen in robot fighting and arena debris is often conductive and sprayed all over the insides of the bots. I did have a short to the baseplate in my sportsman last motorama where the heat melted through the insulation on the battery leads. I have since improved both the insulation and wire gauge.
-Zac
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Yeah, I always use overkill wire, it's definitely a good practice. We used the RX8s on GTO and G6 for a year, we retired the bots after that to work on new stuff. They worked great, they were just pretty bulky compared to the RSs.
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Here's the pre-Moto shot of Spanky:
(http://nearchaos.net/spanky2015-1280.jpg)
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do the bearings embedded in a spinning weapon like algos has get worn out from impacts?
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do the bearings embedded in a spinning weapon like algos has get worn out from impacts?
We'll find out at Moto. The bearings are rated for a fairly high load so I'm hoping they'll last a while.
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do the bearings embedded in a spinning weapon like algos has get worn out from impacts?
We'll find out at Moto. The bearings are rated for a fairly high load so I'm hoping they'll last a while.
cool. they are just 2 flanged bearings that you pressfit in there facing opposite directions?
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do the bearings embedded in a spinning weapon like algos has get worn out from impacts?
We'll find out at Moto. The bearings are rated for a fairly high load so I'm hoping they'll last a while.
cool. they are just 2 flanged bearings that you pressfit in there facing opposite directions?
Exactly, though it's a very slight press fit to avoid crushing the bearings. These are the specific bearings- http://www.mcmaster.com/#57155k305/=vwcijp
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Yeah, bearings in anything that takes impacts will be damaged, but most people have spares. Its just a matter of time before they're needed.
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Bearings will work fine they work in my 15's
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How did the bearings hold up? I used the 1/2" OD version in the ants and they went crunchy after 3 matches. I used the non-flanged version of those in the beetles, and they went crunchy at 5 matches but are still spinning fine just noisy.
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How did the bearings hold up? I used the 1/2" OD version in the ants and they went crunchy after 3 matches. I used the non-flanged version of those in the beetles, and they went crunchy at 5 matches but are still spinning fine just noisy.
Pretty similar results to the beetles, a bit crunchy but still spinning well.
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Spanky's due for a new weapon pod. Here's an animation of the concept:
(http://i.imgur.com/5PAUTEC.gif)
Should be right about at real speed.
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acme thread?
-Kyle
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Yeah, 3/4" dia, 8 pitch.
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nice, that will be really strong. what are you cutting the jaw out of?
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Blue-ish grey is 1/4" 7075, grey-grey is 1/4" AR400.
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The ar is really stiff but I would worry about horizontal stress. I know Charles bent his front lifter supports on clocker in the wrestling match agents Nyx. Are you going to lock them together with standoffs?
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Probably won't. The forks on Nyx are also 1/4" AR400 and held up great at Moto.
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good deal then. I look forward to it.
-Kyle
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Uberclocker doesnt have any AR on it anywhere tho. And this year it was actually the fasteners that failed out.
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ah ok. I didn't get to look close at it, just saw that one went way sideways
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It's very Diesector.
It's going to be very fun to drive
-Zac
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Trying to get into the habit of posting to Nearchaos.net more regularly. I'm intending to put up a post on a robot combat related topic every other weekend for the foreseeable future.
Here's the first one:
http://nearchaos.net/unrequested-advice-drive-better/
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I like the article; building well is important, but you can have the best robot in the world and you can still lose if you can't drive well.
I've spent a lot of time driving, albeit mostly unenclosed, but I try to set some sort of boundary. Like, when I don't have a weapon/spin it up, I just drive in this hallway intersection at our school. It's a little smaller than the arena I fight in, so I think it probably offers better practice. However, one thing that's nice is to practice on the same type of floor as you'll be fighting on. For example, bots really, really suck on waxed linoleum like at our school. If you fight on steel, practice at least some on steel, even if it's much thinner than what you fight on. It'll still grip about the same, and that can show you some issues you didn't think you had. For example, one of my bots had severe gyroing issues. It wasn't as bad in the test box as it was in the arena, so I had to practice not flipping myself every time I tried to turn...
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Trying to get into the habit of posting to Nearchaos.net more regularly. I'm intending to put up a post on a robot combat related topic every other weekend for the foreseeable future.
Here's the first one:
http://nearchaos.net/unrequested-advice-drive-better/
I like the article too. In my experience, my driving skills are pretty weak, so I have to make it so my bot doesn't go that fast to avoid over-steering. More practice would be good, but with the weapon being a very large part of how the bot handles for my machines it's tough to get real driving practice in a safe way.
If you're looking for article topics, doing one on making a wiring harness that doesn't fail would be a big deal for a lot of new teams. Things like isolating all of the contacts, tying wires down so they can't pull loose, keeping rx wires plugged in, power switches, etc are all very common failures I see with new bots. I tried a long time ago to write a little blurb about how to troubleshoot bots but I wasn't able to make the flow of the document work because there were too many possibilities. Maybe you could do a better job of staying focused :)
-Zac
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Thanks, I figure the postings will be a mix of tips/advice, progress report-ish things, and general commentary.
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This weekend's post is a bit short on raw text, but it's got the power point portion of a presentation I'll be giving at Freeside Atlanta included with it-
http://nearchaos.net/combat-robot-building-micro-bots/
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I think some people might have trouble with the .rar format for that archive. Would it be possible for you to post a zip format version too since that is handled natively by windows?
-Zac
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I think some people might have trouble with the .rar format for that archive. Would it be possible for you to post a zip format version too since that is handled natively by windows?
-Zac
Done.
Upcoming topics in no particular order:
Wiring Harnesses/Internal Battle Hardening
Wheels and Wheel Protection
Chaos Cube Repairs and Upgrades
If anyone has topics they'd like me to cover, feel free to post them or email me.
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I think a lot of new teams could use a tutorial on battle-hardening the internals of a bot. Specifically hot glue / tape for rx leads, loctite on screws, foam around batteries, wire ties for loose wires, keeping things away from moving parts, etc.
I saw quite a few of these being missed by the rookie teams this weekend, and I know I never thought about them for my first bot.
-Zac
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Good idea, I think I'll blend that in with the wiring harnesses, as it's all pretty tied together.
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Definitely. I think the #1 type of failure for rookie bots is electrical unplug or accidental short when something comes loose or gets sucked into a sprocket or wheel. That's probably followed closely by "set screw worked loose" failures. Actual mechanical damage is less common, partially because it can only happen if a working weapon is also involved between the two bots.
-Zac
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I look forward for the future installments.
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Please stress the use of loctite. The number one failure I've seen is screws and setscrews coming loose. I've got it in all my instruction manuals but new builders still think it's unnecessary.
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On that note, here's the post:
Battle Hardening the Inside of Your Bot
http://nearchaos.net/battle-hardening-the-inside-of-your-bot/ (http://nearchaos.net/battle-hardening-the-inside-of-your-bot/)
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Excellent. I will be sending this link to any new builders I talk to. Just the connectors, tape, zipties, and loctite sections would make SO MANY more fights go the distance. I had several different people ask my how I made my shell spinner "so reliable" and pretty much everything I did is in this post.
The only other thing is that I try to not push the parts to the breaking point in normal use because when stuff gets bent / something is a bit crunchy the parts all have to work a lot harder. This is much harder to quantify in the design stage and probably is beyond the scope of your series. I guess I have to also say that my bot broke more this year than any time in the past 2 years so maybe I'm losing my touch :).
I've never used acid flux before. What do you find that it helps the most with?
-Zac
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I've never used acid flux before. What do you find that it helps the most with?
It's fantastic for the initial tinning of the wires. Really helps with the solder flow. Most of my connections have solder pretty well permeated throughout the first little nub of wire.
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When you do ring/spade terminals do you put solder on them too, or just trust the crimp? I try to solder all my connections and have never met a crimp I trusted on its own but of course the crimp is probably mechanically stronger.
I have always been overspec on my wire gauge too. I could probably get a lot of weight back in my bots by downsizing the wiring. I basically use 14 ga for the drive motors in my 12/30 pound bots, and 12 ga for anything in the weapon or power system. In my 6 pounder I use 18 ga for everything. I have had to retrofit the drive controller on the 30 with the same 18ga wire at a competition before and it has been holding up since then, so I'm sure I'm way overkill with 14 ga.
What sizes do you use in those ranges?
-Zac
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When you do ring/spade terminals do you put solder on them too, or just trust the crimp? I try to solder all my connections and have never met a crimp I trusted on its own but of course the crimp is probably mechanically stronger.
I have always been overspec on my wire gauge too. I could probably get a lot of weight back in my bots by downsizing the wiring. I basically use 14 ga for the drive motors in my 12/30 pound bots, and 12 ga for anything in the weapon or power system. In my 6 pounder I use 18 ga for everything. I have had to retrofit the drive controller on the 30 with the same 18ga wire at a competition before and it has been holding up since then, so I'm sure I'm way overkill with 14 ga.
What sizes do you use in those ranges?
-Zac
I tend to crimp then solder for most connections. Not really necessary, but a bit of extra security for no real weight gain.
As far as wire goes, for the most part I use Deans 16ga in the 30's. The ants are mostly whatever came stock on the motors/escs/battery/etc
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I've been using 12 and 10 gauge wire in my bots, and I need it, too ;)
When I was using powerpoles, I crimped and soldered, it's definitely worth it. Crimps tend to pull apart eventually, but the solder holds it all in once piece so it can't slide out.
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It's a bit later in the evening than I'd have liked to finish this up, but that's what happens when you spend the weekend working on a bunch of small projects-
Bringing an Arena Out of Retirement
http://nearchaos.net/bringing-an-arena-out-of-retirement/ (http://nearchaos.net/bringing-an-arena-out-of-retirement/)
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Thinking one of the next posts is going to be on where to get harder to find/pricier materials at the best prices (ie, 7075 alu, AR400, tool steels, magnesium, etc...)
Thoughts?
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I think that would be a good post idea.
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I agree. It would help if I knew where to go to get materials for my robots like if I wanted to build a hobby, feather....or a heavy for Battlebots in 10 years...
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Definitely a good plan. Maybe a post with a quick guide to some common metals and their uses as well?
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I agree that a "where to get them" would be way more useful if you also discussed assets and liabilities of materials that are frequently used. Otherwise it is unlikely that new builders would understand why knowing where to get 7075/grade 5 ti/AR400 is important
-Zac
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I agree that a "where to get them" would be way more useful if you also discussed assets and liabilities of materials that are frequently used. Otherwise it is unlikely that new builders would understand why knowing where to get 7075/grade 5 ti/AR400 is important
-Zac
That'll be part of the discussion. (After all, a wall of links is a bit dull)
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Did a bit of antweight work today.
First up is the replacement for the derpy thwackbot with the massive wheels, here's Gelos v2:
(http://nearchaos.net/GelosV2Complete.jpg)
Key Specs:
11.1:1 Silver Sparks
3s Lipo
1.25" wheels
3/32" hardened 4130 wedge
3D printed ABS chassis
Speaking of the printed chassis, here's what it looked like fresh off the printer:
(http://nearchaos.net/GelosPrinted.jpg)
In addition to that, I did a bit of work on Eleos:
(http://nearchaos.net/EleosUpgraded.jpg)
Gave it some fresh 2.25" wheels and upgraded the electrical system. It's now running on a 3s Lipo and uses a 9v regulator from Fingertech to power the servo.
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This weeks post is up. This time around I'm rambling on a bit about wheel guards:
http://nearchaos.net/wheel-guards-maximum-exposure/
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Spanky got a new weapon:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTLujqWzp5Q
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Sweet,
What powers the grabber?
Adam
Revelation Robotics
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Sweet,
What powers the grabber?
Adam
Revelation Robotics
There's a Magnum775 hidden under the whole assembly.
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Figured a picture of the bot with something for scale, say Nyx, would help put the absurdity of the new weapon into context.
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Crikey those are some big jaws. Kinda looks like "Lock Jaw"... you know the one I mean :D
-Zac
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Crikey those are some big jaws. Kinda looks like "Lock Jaw"... you know the one I mean :D
-Zac
Are you talking about Lock-Jaw or Lock-Jaw? :P
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Definitely Lock-Jaw
-Zac
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It's like a fusion of both Lock-Jaws actually. Almost like they...
locked jaws...
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It's like a fusion of both Lock-Jaws actually. Almost like they...
locked jaws...
+5 imaginary points.
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Made a chew toy for Triggo. Meet Styx, the robot formerly known as Nyx.
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I love the paint but I have a feeling Triggo isn't going to love eating that wedge for a whole three minutes. Well, the wedge and the wall I guess..
Last time I fought Nyx with one of my bots you owned me so bad I should have just put the transmitter down.
-Zac
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Hey Mike,
Did you use a 3 jaw chuck on the lathe when cutting down the magnet ring in Algos? I'm trying to do a similar thing and I'm pretty worried about warping the ring.
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Hey Mike,
Did you use a 3 jaw chuck on the lathe when cutting down the magnet ring in Algos? I'm trying to do a similar thing and I'm pretty worried about warping the ring.
Yeah, used a 3 jaw on a small sherline tabletop lathe. I clamped it as lightly as I could while keeping it from moving and did slow/shallow cuts to minimize force.
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I assume Styx is a reference to this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzzZkkiJMv8
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I assume Styx is a reference to this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CzzZkkiJMv8
More this- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Styx
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Reptar Version 3 is mechanically done. It's 6-7g overweight, though I suspect I can get a good bit of that out with some aggressive wedge shaving. Wedge was made longer than needed intentionally to give some wiggle room here.
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did you get a fancy photo booth like Pete Smith too?
-Zac
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did you get a fancy photo booth like Pete Smith too?
-Zac
It's technically Julie's, but it works well for small bots.
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Those that have met Joe at Motorama are probably not going to be surprised that he decided that he wants a bot of his own. We've been plotting, planning, and CADing off and on for a good while now and the design is just about done.
Morrigan
Dragon Con/Sportsman 30lb bot
Drive: 2x DeWuts on 6s in low gear with 6" Chaos Hubbed Colsons
ESC: Prototype RageBridge v2 for drive, BR-XL for weapon
Weapon Motor: Magnum 775
Weapon(s): 10" diameter chain flail, 6" diameter AR400 thresher, 400rpm. Removable rear ramming spike/wheelie bar.
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General Update:
Nyx-
Lifter needs a little bit of work. The wires got mangled at Dragon Con so they'll get replaced. I also want to take a look at the final reduction stage and see how the new shaft material's holding up.
Spanky-
Pretty much ready to go.
Morrigan-
All the parts for Joe's new Sportsman bot are either on hand or on order including some 3/16" laser cut AR400 for the impactors. The chassis still needs to be waterjetted but once that's done the rest of the fabrication should go quickly.
Styx-
The busted drive chain at Dragon Con has been replaced and I've pulled the rubber wedge travel stops so it'll now drag on the ground. Nothing left to do but charge/pack.
Algos-
Wedge has been sharpened and a fresh drumette has been installed.
Klazo-
No real damage at Dragon Con, so it's ready for another go. May give the wedgelets a quick sharpening if they look dull.
Bia-
New esc has been installed and the bot's back together. Should be making its combat debut at Motorama.
Upcoming events:
Robot Battles 57 at Joystick Gamebar on December 5th. Algos, Klazo, Reptar, and Gelos will all be running in the 1lb class.
Battle at Jekyll Con- May be attending with some of the 1lb bots.
Robot Battles 58 at Chattacon- Attending with some portion of the 1lb fleet, at least Algos and Klazo.
Motorama- Planning to bring Bia, Algos, Klazo, Styx, Nyx, Spanky, and Morrigan. With 4 30lb bots it'll be a long weekend.
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Morrigan's done. Proper build report coming soonish-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=56cGUIUh8T4
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After around 3.5 years it's time to retire Algos. During that time it has managed a 61-12 record in singles competition and racked up quite a few podium finishes:
1st Place
Motorama 2016
Robot Battles 58 at ChattaCon
Robot Battles 57 at Joystick Gamebar
Dragon Con Robot Micro Battles 2015
Clash of the Bots 2015
Freeside Robot Street Fight 2015
Motorama 2015
Dragon Con Robot Micro Battles 2013
Clash of the Bots 4
AMMF Presents Atlanta Robotic Combat 2012
2nd Place
Dragon Con Robot Micro Battles 2014
Clash of the Bots 2014
Motorama 2014
3rd Place
Motorama 2013
As part of retiring Algos, we're releasing the final CAD version of the bot. There's been a bit of manual finishing and adjustment from the models but this would be enough to get you most of the way there.
Full CAD can be downloaded at: http://nearchaos.net/AlgosFinal.rar
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in that last picture of Algos, where a screw seems to have ripped out of the titanium plate, what happened? The direction seems odd, was the screw itself hit?
man I am not understanding how you built that thing under a pound, or I suck at my first design lol. My wide drum weapon is 150 grams vs your narrow 75 grams, and my battery is a 2S 800mAH vs your 3S 325mAH. Did I make poor decisions?
thanks for the CAD files, very educational.
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in that last picture of Algos, where a screw seems to have ripped out of the titanium plate, what happened? The direction seems odd, was the screw itself hit?
man I am not understanding how you built that thing under a pound, or I suck at my first design lol. My wide drum weapon is 150 grams vs your narrow 75 grams, and my battery is a 2S 800mAH vs your 3S 325mAH. Did I make poor decisions?
thanks for the CAD files, very educational.
The hit that bent the plate oddly was against DDT at Moto. What's odd is the screw seemed undamaged and threaded out just fine. Haven't gone back and figured out exactly what happened there yet. As far as weight goes, it's all a balancing act. With the parts I'm running in Algos I could run even less than 325mAh, but I'd have trouble sourcing the burst current for spin-up, so I've chosen the smallest pack that was capable of providing the power needed.
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Wow Algos is retiring. What will you replace him with?
Adam
Revelation Robotics
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Wow Algos is retiring. What will you replace him with?
Adam
Revelation Robotics
Got a few 3lb bot ideas kicking around.
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Hey Mike, any particular reason why you took ball bearings over bushings? At the very least, would bushing of similar ID work fine as a substitute?
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Hey Mike, any particular reason why you took ball bearings over bushings? At the very least, would bushing of similar ID work fine as a substitute?
Bushings would be workable but you'd need to stay on top of the wear to ensure that the magnets don't start rubbing on the stator. Even with the bearings the stator took a beating, worn bushings would do the same or worse.
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Near Chaos Robotics will be part of the Chaos Corps for Season 2 of BattleBots-
https://www.facebook.com/ChaosCorps/
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Near Chaos Robotics will be part of the Chaos Corps for Season 2 of BattleBots-
https://www.facebook.com/ChaosCorps/
congrats!
algos is a pretty amazing bot. did anyone ever chew up or rip off a wheel? it seems like the only weakness of algos, and you drive well enough that it is never exposed
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Near Chaos Robotics will be part of the Chaos Corps for Season 2 of BattleBots-
https://www.facebook.com/ChaosCorps/
congrats!
algos is a pretty amazing bot. did anyone ever chew up or rip off a wheel? it seems like the only weakness of algos, and you drive well enough that it is never exposed
It has lost a few wheels over the years. That's the trade off between manuverability/weight and protection
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Congrats Mike! NERCers unite!
Adam
Revelation Robotics
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That is one seriously bad-ass axe! I can't wait to see it in action.